Colombia

Last year when I was in Zihuatenejo, I had a young couple from Columbia stay with me for a week. They were upper middle class Colombians – he was a psychologist, and she a plastic surgeon. They were in Mexico for the first time, and I found talking with them absolutely fascinating.

They expressed some trepidation about coming to Mexico. They saw it as a somewhat backward country and potentially unsafe, and certainly a place where they might pick up some bad bugs. I am not sure what my vision of Columbia was – or even if I had one – but I was surprised to hear that they thought of Mexico as unsafe. Ever heard of Pablo Escobar?

Escobar was the Colombian drug lord that kept the nation of Columbia at war: Cartel wars, wars between the cartels and the government, wars between the communist guerillas and the Americans. These drug wars virtually paralyzed the country - or so I thought. I was young enough in the 80’s that I did not pay a whole lot of attention to what was going on in Columbia – but I remember enough that I had a lasting impression of Columbia as entirely unsophisticated and very unsafe.

Interestingly, when I asked my house guest what it was like for him as a child during that time, he replied, “Probably a lot like what it is like for Europeans right now, with all the terrorism threats they face.”

That reply really startled me, but as he expounded, I realized that much like here in Mexico, if you are not directly involved with the cartels, or if you didn’t live in Medellin in Comuna 13, it really did not affect you other than the natural response we all feel seeing a suicide bombing on TV. We know it is real, and that people have died, but we are too far removed from the reality for it to have a huge impact on our lives. So it was with my Colombian friends growing up during those drug war years.
Anyway, as they described Columbia to me, I realized how very uneducated I was on South America in general. I did not know how modern and advanced Columbia was, I knew nothing of its incredible and unique geography, flora and fauna, and of its diverse peoples. More importantly, I did not know that the drug wars are long since over and that the country is now a thriving tourism hub – that has taken its violent history and turned it into opportunity.

Now there are tours of Pablo Escobar’s many mansions, tours of the old slums – which are now hubs of unbelievable street art.

Medellin and Cali – two of the cities most affected by the wars, are now thriving, beautiful, economic hubs with stunning architecture, amazing churches – so much history. Like many colonial cities here in Mexico, the Spanish who conquered these countries really knew how to build magnificent buildings and lovely parks.

So, have you guessed yet where we are going very soon? Indeed, Columbia is on the list. We leave Puerto Vallarta on Mar 01 to spent 6 weeks in the Playa del Carmen area on the east coast of Mexico, and then we are headed to Honduras – to Utila – for at least a few months. Utila is situated on the world’s second largest barrier reef. Then – when we can snorkel no more – we are off to Columbia!

I have spent a lot of time researching and organizing an amazing month long journey that will begin in Cartagena.

Cartagena is also on the Caribbean coast. We will be staying in Old Town, founded in the 16th century, with squares, cobblestone streets and colorful colonial buildings. From there we will go on to Santa Marta and the Tayrona National Park, known for its palm-shaded coves, coastal lagoons, rainforest and rich biodiversity.

From there we fly to Medellin to see its famous street art, cable car public transit system, Pablo's old stomping ground Comuna 13, and Mayorista Mercado.

Then on to La Macerena and the famed Cano Cristales with its fuscia coloured rivers.

If I can tear myself away from the vibrant colours of the Cano Cristales, we will then go to Armenia - the world famous coffee region for an in-depth discovery of Colombian coffee farming- and a quick visit to see my friends.

The world from afar can seem like a dangerous scary place. But the closer you get, the more you begin to appreciate each and every place for its beauty, its unique people, and its history.